DECEMBER 23, 2019. BY RANDY CAPAROSO.
Well over 90% of wine grapes grown in Lodi still go to California’s largest wineries rather than to the smaller Lodi based wineries that are now popularizing wines with “Lodi” on the label. This means that most of Lodi’s grapes still go into wines that carry a “California” appellation, with no mention of Lodi on front or back labels.
To give you an idea of who those big wineries are, the following is a partial list from the 50 largest American wineries cited in Wine Business Monthly’s “The WBM 50” issue this past February. Out of WBM’s top 50, the following 22 are the ones that have recently posted yearly sales of at least 1 million cases, with the names of companies (many of them producing as many as several dozen brands) sourcing substantial amounts of Lodi grown fruit listed in bold letters:
- E. & J. Gallo Winery (70 million cases)
Russet tinged Roussanne (hence, the name of the grape) grown by Mettler Family Vineyards for a number of craft wineries outside the Lodi wine region.
- The Wine Group (53 million cases)
- Constellation Brands (50 million cases)
- Trinchero Family Estates (20 million cases)
- Treasury Wine Estates (15 million cases)
- Delicato Family Vineyards (11 million cases)
- Bronco Wine Company (10 millon cases)
- Ste. Michelle Estates (9 million cases)
- Jackson Family Wines (6 million cases)
- Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits (Josh Cellars; 2.5 million cases)
- Vina Concha y Toro (Fetzer Vineyards; 2.5 million cases)
- Bogle Vineyards (2.5 million cases)
- Precept Wine (2.3 million cases)
- Vintage Wine Estates (2 million cases)
- The Family Coppola (1.7 million cases)
- CK Mondavi & Family (1.7 million cases)
- J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines (1.7 million cases)
- WX Brands (1.6 million cases)
- Foley Family Wines (1.5 million cases)
- Korbel (1.5 million cases)
- Duckhorn Vineyards (1.1 million cases)
- Don Sebastiani & Sons (1.1 million cases)
Silhouette of Robert Mondavi at Constellation Brands’ Woodbridge Winery, producing “California” appellation wines with a substantial amount of Lodi grown fruit.
Lodi, to put it bluntly, supplies the lion’s share of the grapes going into wines priced between $5 and $20 on retail shelves, from Hawaii to New York. In other words, the wines that the vast majority of Americans actually drink. While most of these wines don’t say “Lodi” on the label – since most big production California wines are blends of wines grown in multiple wine regions – a growing number of them do.
To give you an idea of how big a role Lodi plays within the California wine industry, this is a 2018 listing of wine grape acres compiled by the USDA, comparing the 8 most widely planted grapes grown in Lodi with that of the rest of the state:
As you can see, despite Lodi’s traditional association with warm-climate grapes such as Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, there is a lot more Pinot Gris/Grigio (27.7% of the state’s total), Merlot (21.3%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (14.9%) grown in Lodi than you might expect. And although Lodi is absolutely not thought of as a place for Pinot Noir, the reason why there are 3,476 acres of this grape in Lodi is simple: market demand.
Pinot Gris (a.k.a. Pinot Grigio) grown by Lodi’s Mohr-Fry Ranches.
In fact, the actual tonnage reported in USDA’s 2018 California California Grape Crush Report tells a slightly different story. Because much of Lodi’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir acreage consists of young, high yielding vines (planted within the past 10 years), the percent of Lodi’s crop compared to the rest of California is even higher. Here is a snapshot, along with a comparison of the total amount of Lodi grapes harvested in 2018 in comparison to the rest of California:
When you count the actual amount of grape tons yielded, Lodi produces nearly 30% and 15% of California’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir respectively, and nearly 19% of all wine grapes accounted for in USDA’s most recent California Grape Crush Report. The logical question is, where does all this Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir go? There are obviously far more bottlings of these varietals with, say, Napa Valley or Sonoma on the label than there are with “Lodi.”
The answer: There is a lot more Lodi grown Cabernet Sauvignon in “Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon,” and more Lodi grown Pinot Noir in “Sonoma Pinot Noir,” than you might suspect (according to federal law, 85% of wines carrying an official American Viticultural Area designation must come from that AVA, leaving up to 15% leeway for blending with wines from other regions).
Pinot Noir (Dijon clone 115) grown by Lodi’s Ripken Vineyards for several North Coast wineries.
All the same, there is a growing number of wineries based outside the Lodi wine region who are now bottling wines proudly carrying either a Lodi appellation or the names of one of Lodi’s seven sub-AVAs (Mokelumne River, Clements Hills, Borden Ranch, Alta Mesa, Sloughhouse, Cosumnes River, or Jahant). Many of these wines are coming out of tiny, boutique style wineries taking a handcrafted approach to winemaking, although a good number of these wineries produce “Lodi” wine on a much larger commercial scale for the predominant, value priced market (under $20).
Interested in knowing who these non-Lodi wineries are? Here is a listing of producers putting Lodi on labels of wines sold in retail stores or restaurants, or (in many cases) “direct-to-consumer” either online, through private clubs or at the winery doors:
Alquimista Cellars (Sebastopol, CA)
– Jessie’s Grove Vineyard Zinfandel
Greg La Follette (Sebastopol’s Alquimista Cellars) and Steve Matthiasson (Napa’s Matthiasson Wines), both picking 2019 Zinfandel from Jessie’s Grove’s Royal Tee Vineyard, planted on Lodi’s west side in 1889.
Avivo (by DeVero Farms & Winery; Healdsburg, CA)
– The Bench Vineyard Clements Hills Vermentino
– River’s Edge Vineyard Mokelumne River Sangiovese
Ridge Evers, owner of Healdsburg’s DeVero Farms, checking out 2019 Vermentino grown biodynamically by Lodi’s Vino Farms for Evers’ Avivo label.
Bedrock Wine Company (Sonoma, Sonoma Valley)
– Kirschenmann Vineyard Zinfandel
Birichino Winery (Santa Cruz, CA)
– Bechthold Vineyard Cinsault
Cameron Hughes Wine (San Francisco, CA)
– Lot 636 Zinfandel
Carlisle Winery & Vineyards (Windsor, CA)
– Kirschenmann Vineyard Zinfandel
Carol Shelton Wines (Santa Rosa, CA)
– Pizazz Piazza Ranch Zinfandel
The “Pizazz” Lodi Zinfandel produced by Sonoma’s Carol Shelton.
Cattoo Wines (nakedwines.com; San Lucas, CA)
– Zinfandel
– Cabernet Sauvignon
Cosentino Winery (Yountville, CA)
– THE Blanc (90% Sauvignon Blanc/Chenin Blanc)
– THE Chard (Chardonnay)
– THE Franc (Cabernet Franc)
– THE Zin
– THE Cab
– THE Dark (Petite Sirah/Petit Verdot/Cabernet Sauvignon)
Covenant Wines (Berkeley, CA)
– The Tribe Chardonnay
– Mensch Roussanne
– Mensch Zinfandel
– Cuvée Chabad Zinfandel
Jeff Morgan, owner of the Berkeley’s Covenant Wines, who sources Lodi grown Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Roussanne for his hand crafted, kosher approved line of wines.
Creekview Vineyards (San Martin, CA)
– Syrah
– Cabernet Sauvignon
Ehrenberg Cellars (Livermore, CA)
– Petite Sirah
– Barbera
– Zinfandel
The Federalist (by Terlato Wines; Rutherford, CA)
– Lodi Zinfandel
– Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon
Terlato Wines’ The Federalist Lodi Zinfandel, sold from coast to coast and, reportedly, at showings of the smash Broadway play “Hamilton”.
Fenestra Winery (Livermore, CA)
– Graciano
– Silvaspoons Vineyard Port (Touriga/Tinta Cão/Souzão/Tempranillo)
Ferdinand Wines (Napa, CA)
– Vista Luna Vineyard Borden Ranch Albariño
Four Vines (by Purple Wine + Spirits; Graton, CA)
– Zinfandel
Goldstrike 849 (by Bozzano & Company; San Luis Obispo)
– Cabernet Sauvignon
Gnekow Family Winery (Stockton, CA)
– Campus Oaks Chardonnay
– Campus Oaks White Zinfandel
– Campus Oaks Zinfandel
– Campus Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon
Haraszthy Family Cellars (Sonoma, CA)
– Bearitage Pinot Gris
– Bearitage Sauvignon Blanc
– Zinfandel
– Petite Sirah
Harlow Ridge Winery (by Bronco Wine Co.; Ceres, CA)
– Chardonnay
– Pinot Noir
– Zinfandel
– Petite Sirah
– Malbec
– Cabernet Sauvignon
Hatton Daniels Wine Cellars (Santa Rosa, CA)
– Mokelumne Glen Vineyard Rosé of Dornfelder
– Mokelumne Glen Vineyard Dornfelder
– Mokelumne Glen Vineyard Blaufränkisch
– Mokelumne Glen Vineyard Zweigelt
Herzog Wine Cellars (Oxnard, CA)
– Baron Herzog Zinfandel
– Baron Herzog Late Harvest Zinfandel
Holman Cellars (Napa, CA)
– Uncharted Mokelumne Glen Vineyard Bacchus
– Uncharted Mule Plane Vineyard Mokelumne River Carignane
– Uncharted Clay Station Vineyard Borden Ranch Grenache Blanc
– Uncharted Mokelumne Glen Vineyards Dornfelder
– Uncharted Terra Alta Vineyard Clements Hills Picpoul Blanc
– Uncharted Clay Station Vineyard Borden Ranch Verdejo
Jason Holman of Napa’s Holman Cellars with +90-year-old Carignan vine in Lodi’s Mule Plane Vineyard, also sourced by Napa’s Leaf and Vine winery to produce a vineyard-designate wine.
Jacqueline Bahue Wines (nakedwines.com; Kenwood, CA)
– Cabernet Franc
Jeff Runquist Wines (Plymouth, CA)
– Silvaspoons Vineyard Grenache
– Silvaspoons Vineyard Tannat
– Silvaspoons Vineyard Touriga
Amador County’s Jeff Runquist, who has crafted numerous award winning wines from Lodi grown grapes.
Leaf and Vine Winery (Napa, CA)
– Vista Luna Vineyard Borden Ranch Albariño
– Mule Plane Vineyard Mokelumne River Carignane
– Vista Luna Vineyard Borden Ranch Grenache Blanc
– Vista Luna Vineyard Borden Ranch Petite Sirah
– Vista Luna Vineyard Borden Ranch Verdelho
– Vista Luna Vineyard Borden Ranch Zinfandel
Lewis Grace Winery (Placerville, CA)
– Alta Mesa Torrontés
Loma Prieta Winery (Los Gatos, CA)
– Chardonnay
– Amoroso Vineyard Roussanne
– Amoroso Vineyard Viognier
– Alta Mesa Sparkling Pinotage Blanc de Noirs
– Karma Vineyard Pinotage
– Amorosa Vineyard Pinotage
– Amorosa Vineyard Petite Sirah
– Bodo’s Blend Pinotage (Pinotage/Petite Sirah)
– S&P Vineyard Alta Mesa Cabernet Franc
– S&P Vineyard Alta Mesa Merlot
– S&P Vineyard Alta Mesa Malbec
– S&P Vineyard Alta Mesa Cabernet Sauvignon
Magnavino Cellars (Oxnard, CA)
– Symphony
– Beautiful (blend of 4 white varieties)
– Butterfly Chardonnay
– Sangiovese
– Petite
– Zinfandel
– Tempranillo
– Mourvèdre
– Pinot Noir
– Syrah
– Merlot
– Cabernet
– Trifection (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre)
– Tuscan Romance (Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot)
– Magnatude (Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah/Petite Sirah/Tempranillo)
Maître de Chai (Napa, CA)
– Stampede Vineyard Clements Hills Zinfandel
“New generation” winemakers Alex Pitts (left) and Marty Winters of tiny, Napa based Maître de Chai winery with Zinfandel grown by Clements Hills-Lodi’s Stampede Vineyard.
McManis Family Vineyards (Ripon, CA)
– Zinfandel
– Pinot Noir
– Merlot
McManis Family’s Sierra Loma Vineyard in Lodi’s Borden Ranch, one of several sizable Lodi vineyard properties owned and managed by this Ripon based grower/producer.
Mountain Tides (Napa, CA)
– Clements Hills Petite Sirah
– Clements Hills Rosé of Petite Sirah
– Palmero Family Vineyard Borden Ranch Petite Sirah
Scott Kirkpatrick, owner/winemaker of the Napa-based Mountain Tides winery, specializing in handcrafted Petite Sirah sourced primarily from Lodi vineyards such as Anaya Vineyards’ Viñedos Aurora (depicted in this photo).
Neyers Vineyards (St. Helena, CA)
– Vista Luna Vineyard Borden Ranch Zinfandel
The Borden Ranch AVA Zinfandel block in Bokisch’s Vista Luna Vineyard, bottled by Neyers Vineyards, Turley Wine Cellars, and several other wineries located outside of Lodi.
Odisea/Cochon Wine Company (Napa, CA)
– The Temp (Lewis Vineyard Clements Hills Tempranillo)
Onesta Wines (Napa, CA)
– Clay Station Vineyard Grenache Blanc
– Bokisch Ranch Viognier
– Bechthold Vineyard Rosé of Cinsault
– Bechthold Vineyard Cinsault
Precedent Wine (Woodside, CA)
– Clements Hills Chenin Blanc Sec
– Mule Plane Vineyard Mokelumne River Carignan
– Victor’s Mokelumne River Zinfandel
Ravenswood Winery (Sonoma, CA)
– Lodi Zinfandel
Trail Marker Wine Co. (Oakland, CA)
– Mokelumne Glen Vineyard Blaufränkisch
– Mokelumne Glen Vineyard Zweigelt
Trail Marker Wine Co. owner/winemakers Drew Huffine and Emily Virgil, who produce Lodi grown Blaufränkish and Zweigelt at their Oakland winery.
Quinta Cruz (by Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard; Santa Cruz, CA)
– Bokisch Vineyard Clements Hills Albariño
– Silvaspoons Vineyard Alta Mesa Verdelho
– Silvaspoons Vineyard Alta Mesa Souzão
– Bokisch Vineyard Clements Hills Graciano
Lodi “Portuguese grape king” Ron Silva of Silvaspoons Vineyards, whose grapes such as Touriga Francesa (in this photo) and Touriga Nacional go to a number of specialty winemakers up and down the Coast.
Reed Wine Cellars (Stockton, CA)
– Lily Chardonnay
– Tempranillo
– Zinfandel
– Cabernet Franc
– Cabernet Sauvignon
– Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
Sandlands Wines (Napa, CA)
– Kirschenmann Vineyard Chenin Blanc
Tegan Passalacqua, who makes wines from seven different Lodi vineyards for both Turley Wine Cellars and his own Sandlands label (photo courtesy of John Curley Photography).
The Scholium Project (Fairfield, CA)
– Bokisch Ranch VLV Reserve (Verdelho)
– Kirschenmann Ranch Chenin Blanc
– Rhododactylos Bechthold Ranch Blanc de Noir (Cinsaut)
– Bechthold Ranch Cinsault
– Kirschenmann Ranch Zinfandel
Sidebar Cellars (by Ramey Wine Cellars; Healdsburg, CA)
– Mokelumne Glen-Lodi Kerner
Acclaimed North Coast winemaker David Ramey (with daughter Claire Ramey-Pejovic), who has been producing an extremely successful Lodi grown Kerner as a “sidebar” project.
Sierra Starr Vineyard & Winery (Grass Valley, CA)
– Chardonnay
Six Hands Winery (Walnut Grove, CA)
– Palmero Vineyard Chenin Blanc
– Cusumano Ranch Zinfandel
– Cresci Vineyard Petite Sirah
Skyline (by Thomas Fogarty Vineyards; Woodside, CA)
– Artisan Red (Tempranillo/Zinfandel/Grenache/Petite Sirah)
Nathan Kandler, a widely lauded Santa Cruz Mountains winemaker who sources from several Lodi vineyards for Thomas Fogarty’s Skyline as well as his own Precedent labels.
Solitary Cellars (Madera, CA)
– East Block Zinfandel
– Clements Oaks Merlot
– Borden Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon
Truckee River Winery (Truckee, CA)
– Chardonnay
– Manna Ranch Zinfandel
Nevada County, CA’s high elevation Truckee River Winery, which also produces warm climate grown Lodi Chardonnay and Zinfandel (image courtesy of Truckee River Winery).
Turley Wine Cellars (St. Helena, CA)
– Bechthold Vineyard Cinsault
– Kirschenmann Vineyard Zinfandel
– Dogtown Vineyard Zinfandel
– Steacy Ranch Zinfandel
Twisted Cedar Wines (Cedar City, UT)
– Chardonnay
– Sangiovese Rosé
– Zinfandel
– Malbec
– Cabernet Sauvignon
Two Shepherds (Windsor, CA)
– Bechthold Vineyard Cinsault
“Lodi” on the label of a Cinsaut produced from Lodi’s 133-year-old Bechthold Vineyard by the Windsor based Two Shepherds winery.
Urbano Cellars (Berkeley, CA)
– Amarosa Vineyard Mokelumne River-Lodi Sangiovese
– Bokides Ranch Côtes du Clements (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre)
– Bokides Ranch Clements Hills Cabernet Franc
– Lodi Zinfandel
– Lewis Vineyard Clements Hills Tempranillo
– Lewis Vineyard Clements Hills Barbera
– Lewis Vineyard Clements Hills Teroldego
– Clements Hills Malbec
Bob Rawson (left) and Fred Dick, owners of Berkeley’s Urbano Cellars, who source most of their fruit from the Lodi AVA.
Ursa Vineyards (Placerville, CA)
– Silvaspoons Vineyards Alta Mesa Mencía
– Silvaspoons Vineyards Alta Mesa Tannat Rosé
Uvaggio Wines (Napa, CA)
– Vermentino
– Moscato Secco
– Moscato Dolce
– Vermentino Passito
– Cinsaut Rosé
– Primitivo
– Barbera
Jim Moore, owner/winemaker of the Napa based Uvaggio Wines, who has producing Italian inspired wines from Lodi vineyards for well over 20 years.
V. Sattui Winery (St. Helena, CA)
– Pilgrim Vineyard Zinfandel
Vino Vargas (San Miguel, CA)
– Toro Tinto Clements Hills Tempranillo
Wise Villa Winery (Lincoln, CA)
– Alta Mesa Torrontés
– Alta Mesa Malbec
Zin-phomaniac (Petaluma, CA)
– Zinfandel
Zynthesis Cellars (by Purple Wine + Spirits; Graton, CA)
– Zinfandel
Randy Caparoso is a full-time wine journalist who lives in Lodi, California. Randy puts bread (and wine) on the table as the Editor-at-Large and Bottom Line columnist for The SOMM Journal, and currently blogs and does social media for Lodi Winegrape Commission’s lodiwine.com. He also contributes editorial to The Tasting Panel magazine and crafts authentic wine country experiences for sommeliers and media.
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